Rake shingles

edges and nail heads along the very top edge of the sidewall shingles, we make this nailing strip about an inch narrower than the trim shingles, thus allowing the trim shingles to overlap the sidewall shingles by a generous amount. We must specify a width for the rake trim shingles; 3" is perhaps the minimum that will allow for proper nailing to the nailing strip beneath. We select the actual width by studying the appearance of rake trim courses of various widths on the end elevation of the building. We select 3Yi", which results in a nailing strip 2W wide (a 1 X 3, a convenientlv standard size: Uncut Units). Wood shingles are cus-tomarilv furnished by the manufac-

turer in assorted random widths ranging from about 3" to 12", so the builder will use a table saw to cut constant-width shingles for the rake from wider shingles.

The wood shingles on the roof must overhang the rake trim shingles by 1" or so to prevent water from running under the rake edges. If we install a thick nailing strip and the rake shingles are about thick at their maximum, the roof shingles must be laid with a total rake overhang of 2W beyond the sheathing of the gable wall. It is wise to note this dimension on the final detail drawing, because the roof is usually shingled before the walls and rakes. The builder must have the foresight to provide a sufficient overhang or else face a difficult and expensive reshin-gling of the roof edges. The detailer should go out of his or her way to avoid this catastrophe.

The lower corner of each rake must terminate gracefully at the triangular cheek area on each corner of the building. Probably the simplest way to finish the cheek is to extend the sheathing and sidewall shingles onto it. The spacing of the rake trim shingles can be matched to the spacing of the roof shingles for a neat appearance. The last rake trim shingle at the bottom can be left square, as shown, or cut off level, as dictated by appearance considerations. At the ridge of the roof, the two rake trim courses can intersect with a miter. The two mitered shingles will be the only ones on the facade that will have exposed nail heads, unless a mastic construction adhesive is used to glue these two shingles in place.

There is one other aspect of the rake detail that requires our attention, and that is the framing of the triangular wall of the gable. Carpenters are accustomed to building houses with attics, but our building has none. In houses with attics, the wall studs in the gable ends are normally interrupted at ceiling level by a double top plate, and short studs on top of this plate are used to frame the triangular gable. The top plate is supported laterally by the attic floor. In our building, which has no attic floor, this type of framing would not be strong enough against wind loads. The gable wall studs in our building must be single pieces that stretch from floor to rafter. We scale an elevation drawing to find that the longest stud will be about 15' tall. We are using 2X6 studs 24" apart. Are these strong and stiff enough for such a tall wall? We check a table in the building :ode and find that they are. We know from experience that carpenters will not frame the end walls with full-height studs unless we tell them to do 50, so we make a note to call this out on the elevations and sections of the construction drawings. >

Mitered shingles

Mitered shingles

Rake Shingles
"Hake trim shingles


Yta/I shingles

Yta/I shingles

Gable Rake Soffit Vent

Developing the Soffit Termination Looking up from beneath, the eave soffit must terminate neatly against the inside surface of the cheek shingles, which should hang down to form a drip 1" or so below the soffit. If the soffit boards and continuous vent strip were simply butted to the cheek, a somewhat rough appearance would result. The most finished appearance would result from mitering the 1 X 4 outer soffit piece to form a return at the end of the soffit. This will work if the 1 X 4 is made of well-seasoned lumber, such as the kiln-dried Douglas fir that we have already chosen. If there is any uncertainty about the moisture content of the soffit lumber, it is better to use a butt joint to avoid the opening of the miter joint that will occur if the wood shrinks (Butt Joint). Notice that the location of the butt joint is chosen to conceal the end grain of the wood against the vertical surface of the cheek shingles, rather than expose it under the sloping roof shingles.

Our design for the rake detail is now complete, pending a later check for consistency with the other details of the building.

Roof Shingles Detailing
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