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Detailing the Interior Finishes We now turn our attention to adding the interior finishes to our detail of the spandrel. Vertical, galvanized steel, hat-shaped furring strips (a stock item) will be fastened to the wall 16" apart with powder-actuated fasteners, and foil-backed veneer plaster base will be screwed to the furring strips. (Veneer plaster base is commonlv called "blueboard." It is j a gypsum board that is designed to serve as a base for a thin coating of veneer plaster.) Electrical wiring for wall receptacles will be run in a metal conduit; we note that a gap should be left in the furring strips for this purpose (Horizontal Plenum). A standard \Yi" deep electrical box will just fit in the thickness provided by the furring and plaster.

The clips that restrain the top of the backup wall must be covered with a finish layer, so we furr and plaster the beam as well as the wall. Because of the potential for movement in the soft joint between the perimeter beam and the backup wall, we use a resilient vinyl trim bead, a stock item from the gypsum supplier's catalog, to provide a movement joint between the plaster wall and the plaster soffit under the beam.

At the base ot the wall, we install a wood baseboard [Building Arm or) using finish screws that, like finish nails, are almost headless, to attach it through the plaster to the metal furring strips. To keep the plaster fiat and firm behind the baseboard, we show a horizontal furring strip at the base of the wall. After the baseboard is in place, the pad and carpet can be installed, using a tackless strip to form a neat edge against the baseboard. A call to our acoustic consultant brings bad news, however: A floor detail that consists of a carpet and thick pad over a 10" concrete slab has an Impact Insulation Class of about 70, which is excellent, but its Sound Transmission Class (STC) is onlv about 53, which is below stan-

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