To ensure there was enough bulk in between the window openings, we added buttressing, as well.
As this is a small structure with compact openings, the relatively narrow space between the windows did not compromise the integrity of the structure. For a larger dome, or if the windows are to be installed at a higher level (which would be the case if we were building a dome with a floor at grade level), the window boxes should be further apart to increase the width of the solid wall between them (Fig. 12.14).
Now we can lay barbed wire in between the forms, being sure to incorporate any buttresses.
We used 100-lb. bags around our door and windows for extra mass. Once we got all our forms locked in place, we continued the bag work around the entire circle and tamped the whole row, making sure all of our box forms were secure, and lay barbed wire over the surface of the tamped wall and in between the forms (Fig. 12.15 & 12.16).
great example o to use a scab!
12.14: Incorporating buttresses is another way to increase the mass in between openings while keeping the openings relatively close together.
12.15 (below): Extend extra-long strip anchors beyond profile of wall as a built-in ledge to support a dormer made from sculpted cob, bamboo, fired brick, etc. Note: Buttressing extends into interior of dome.
12.16 (left): Door buttressing can be built out of tubes or bags that extend into the interior, exterior, or both. The door opening is the weakest part of the wall in a dome. To ensure structural integrity, incorporate buttressing alongside the door forms. Buttressing provides extra wall width needed for installing a plumb doorjamb. (The shaded area indicates the contour of the corbelled wall.)
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